Don Silvers

The USDA inspectors mark beef carcasses (including full, half and quarter carcasses) with a quality grade mark. Quality grading is designed to distinguish between differences in palatability among carcasses. In red meat carcasses the quality grade has served as a nationwide guide to the eating qualities of meat, including its tenderness, juiciness and flavor.

Beef quality attributes considered to be of value include: 1 maturity, 2 marbling, 3 texture of the lean, 4 firmness of the lean and fat, and 5 color of the lean and fat.

The quality grade is determined by considering the degree of marbling and firmness as observed in the cut surface of the rib eye in relation to the maturity of the carcass. In other words, a younger beef cannot be expected to have the same marbling in the rib eye as the older one.

There are eight grades of beef, although only the first three or four are usually sold in markets. These grades are, in descending order of quality: Prime, Choice, Select, Standard, Commercial, Utility, Cutter, Canner.

The first two grades- prime and choice- are top quality, the select grade is average. The other grades should not be used in most circumstances.

Three Choice Grade levels

The Choice Grade represents beef which is 15% more marbled than Select. The Choice Grade covers a very broad spectrum of beef. Within the Choice Grade, there are three different levels of quality, which are usually called:

Small marbling Modest marbling Moderate marbling Moderately marbled USDA Choice is the top cut, just one step short of Prime. Branded beef often uses this top cut of Choice for its program (see below).

Decline in beef quality Chefs should know a little about the history of the grading system in order to understand how a change in the grading system led to a decline in the quality of beef. Experts agree that the quality of beef today is much worse that it was twenty years ago. This will explain the reason.

Prior to 1987, the top three grades of beef in the U.S. were Prime, Choice and Good. The major difference was the degree of marbling: Prime is 15% more marbled than Choice, which is 15% more marbled than Good. About three-fourths of grain-fed beef was graded Prime or Choice.

The National Cattlemen's Association (NCA) started a nationwide consumer movement for lean beef. At the request of the NCA, Texas A&M University produced the "National Consumer Retail Beef Study", which began the "War on Fat". The study recommended that consumers be educated to purchase lean beef.

The problem was that beef graded Prime and Choice were fatter, and consumers had learned that beef graded Good was lean but tough.

The "solution" - so typically the resort of those with poor ideas but a "we know better than them" conviction - was to change the definition. That is, change the name of the grade from Good to Select, so that consumers could be "fooled" into thinking that a lean cut was better than one with fat. In other words, consumers would be "re-educated" (some would call the government's efforts nothing less than propaganda) to prefer lean, lower-quality beef.

As opposed to the fraudulent "solution", the fact is that the taste of beef results from marbling (intermuscular fat). Prime Grade beef tastes better than lowers graded beef because it has more marbling - more fat. Conversely, leaner beef has less marbling and less taste.

In the 1980s, some people argued that consumers deserved to be educated, not brain-washed. They urged the industry to educate consumers on the following facts: (1) marbled beef tastes better than leaner beef; (2) marbled beef is more expensive than leaner beef; but (3) eating too much marbled beef is not healthy. Those who urged this lost the argument to others who wanted to "fool the consumers" with a combination of a name-change coupled with the false and incomplete message that "lean beef tastes better and is healthier". Both statements are false: lean beef does not taste better, and lean beef if not healthier.

Skeptics may argue that the beef industry succeeded beyond their wildest expectations and hopes. After all, now 80% of Prime Grade U.S. beef is exported (mostly to Japan) at premium prices; U.S. consumers are now buying low-quality beef without objection; and the low-quality beef costs the industry much less to produce (yet it now produces the same revenue as previously received for high-quality beef).

For more information, see Robb Walsh's story, "A Matter of Fat".

In 1987, as a result of the study, the USDA Good Grade was renamed the Select Grade. Since then, consumers have been "educated" into believing that lean beef like Select Grade is a high quality grade, and beef of the highest quality has declined in availability (quantity) and, according to some, even in quality. According to Marilyn Spiera, President of the famous Brooklyn steakhouse, Peter Luger, "A lot of the meat they now sell as 'Prime' wouldn't even be graded 'Choice' 35 years ago." Quoted by John Mariani, Ready for Prime Time.

CAB and other branded beef programs Because the 1987 changes led consumers to experience a decrease in the quality (taste) of beef, a market for higher quality beef developed, which itself led to the development of branded beef programs. The best marketed and thus best known program now is the Certified Angus Beef (CAB).

CAB uses the top third of the Choice Grade, which is called the Moderately Marbled level of Choice. With the consumer confusion caused by the USDA's changes, CAB allows consumers an alternative to the confusing (for them) government grading. According to a report, "After the USDA issues a grade, an Angus grader comes through and stamps the meat that fits their program. What they are taking is, by and large, the top level of USDA Choice." CAB and other programs market their beef without the USDA labels and pass off as the highest quality those cuts which are not quite Prime Grade but are nevertheless affordable.

Most consumers and even many barbecue cooks believe incorrectly that CAB is Prime Grade. Of course, that is exactly what CAB wants consumers to believe (and it is the reason that CAB itself does not usually label the USDA Grade on its products).

CAB is only one of the many branded beef programs. Sterling Silver and others are also widely available.

In addition, there are a new generation of "organic", "natural" and "hormone-free" beef sold in the U.S. While these in the past had been available only from "health food stores", they are now becoming commonly available in supermarkets.

Yield grades

The USDA grades beef with a yield grade, in addition to the quality grade. Yield grading is designed to illustrate the percentage of lean meat that can be obtained from a beef carcass. The yield grade of a beef carcass is determined by four characteristics: (1) amount of external fat; (2) amount of kidney, pelvic, and heart fat; (3) area of the rib eye muscle; and, (4) warm carcass weight.

There are five yield grades numbered 1 through 5. Beef carcasses in Yield Grade 1 have the highest degree of cutability while carcasses in Yield Grade 5 have the lowest. (Cutability refers to the proportion of the carcass weight that is actually saleable at the retail counter.) Yield grades are applied without regard to quality grade. Grades such as USDA Prime-1, Choice-1, Choice-2, or any combination of quality grade and yield grade may be applied to the carcass.

Grading not mandatory

Commercial produced beef in the United States is not required to be officially graded. For example, most States have a department to inspect and grade meat and poultry, but federal law prohibits the interstate transportation of any meat or poultry that has not been federally inspected.

8 (6-8 ounces) bone-in chicken thighs, trimmed

1 1/4 teaspoons salt

Pepper

Vegetable spray

Adjust oven racks to middle and lower positions, place rimmed baking sheet on lower rack, and heat oven to 450 degrees.

Using metal skewer, poke skin side of chicken thighs 10 to 12 times. Season both sides of thighs with salt and pepper, spray skin lightly with vegetable oil spray. Place thighs skin side down on preheated baking sheet. Return baking sheet to bottom rack.

Roast chicken until skin side is beginning to brown and meat registers 160 degrees, 20 to 25 minutes, rotating pan. Remove chicken from oven and heat broiler.

While broiler heats, flip chicken skin side up. Broil chicken on middle rack until skin is crisp and well browned and meat registers 175 degrees, about 5 minutes, rotating pan as needed for even browning. Transfer chicken to platter and let rest for 5 minutes.

Pour some kosher salt into the skillet and rub vigorously with a kitchen towel over the side and bottom of the pan. The abrasiveness of the salt will put a fine polish on the skillet. Discard the salt and proceed with the recipe.

To remove the smoky, unpleasant taste from scorched rice, scoop the rice into a clean pot, being careful not to scrape in any of the crusty bottom at the same time. Place a single layer of onion skins on top of the rice. Cover the pot and let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes. The onion skins will remove the acrid taste from the rice. Discard the onion skins and serve.

Here is another great dessert recipe to finish off Thanksgiving dinner

2 cups whole milk, or use a combination of milk and heavy whipping cream, divided

1/3 cup sugar

2 ounces bittersweet chocolate cut into 1/4 inch pieces

2 ounces milk chocolate, cut into1/4 inch pieces

2 tablespoons cornstarch

2 tablespoons alkalized (Dutch process) cocoa powder

3 large eggs

2 teaspoons vanilla extract, rum or a sweet liqueur

Combine 1 1/2 cups milk with the sugar in a non-reactive saucepan. Whisk to mix. Place over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Remove from heat and add chocolates. Let stand 5 minutes, then whisk smooth.

Meanwhile, pour remaining 1/2 cup milk in a mixing bowl; whisk in cornstarch, sift in cocoa, then whisk in eggs.

Return milk and chocolate mixture to a simmer over low heat, whisking often so it doesn't scorch. Whisk a third of the hot liquid into the egg mixture.

Return the remaining milk and chocolate mixture to a simmer and then slowly whisk in the egg mixture, whisking constantly until the mixture thickens and just comes to a boil.

Off heat, whisk in vanilla. Fill individual cups or glasses with the pudding and press a piece of plastic wrap against the surface of each, to prevent a skin from forming. Chill the puddings and serve cold, with a spoonful of whipped cream, if desired.

This is a great dessert to serve at Thanksgiving!

12 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, cut into 1/4 inch pieces

1/2 cup milk

2 cups heavy whipping cream

4 egg yolks

1/3 cup sugar

1/3 cup coffee, orange juice, or sweet liqueur (if using sweet liqueur, reduce sugar to 3 tablespoons)

Chocolate shavings, whipped cream, or both to garnish

Bring a saucepan of water to a boil and remove from heat. Put cut chocolate and milk in a heatproof bowl and place over the pan of hot water. Stir occasionally to melt chocolate evenly. Once chocolate has melted remove bowl from pan and whisk smooth.

While the chocolate is melting, whip cream until it holds a soft peak. If it is warm in the room, cover and refrigerate the cream while preparing sabayon.

Return the pan of water to a boil. In a heatproof bowl or the bowl of an electric mixer, whisk the yolks together by hand. Whisk in the sugar and the liquid flavoring. Replace the bowl over the pan of simmering water and beat constantly until the mixture thickens slightly. Remove from heat and use an electric mixer on medium speed to beat sabayon until cool and risen in volume. To finish, by hand whisk the bowl of hot sabayon over a bowl of cold water with a few ice cubes in it until cool and thickened. Do not let the sabayon become ice cold.

To assemble the mousse, whisk the chocolate mixture into the sabayon, and quickly fold in the whipped cream. Place mousse in a bowl or glasses and garnish with extra whipped cream, if desired, and chocolate shavings. Refrigerate until about an hour before serving.

Makes about 6 to 8 servings

Makes 3 Quarts

1/2 pound bacon

1 large onion sliced

1 stalk celery sliced

1 large sprig sage

1 hubbard squash or other firm dry pumpkin or winter squash(about 3 1/2 pounds)

8 cups water

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Remove the rind and any hard, dry skin from the bacon. Cut the bacon into 1/4 inch dice.

Place a large saucepan over low heat, add the bacon pieces, and cook gently so they render their fat. When most of their fat is rendered, add the onion, celery, and sage, stirring to coat with the fat. Cook until the vegetables soften slightly, about 7 minutes.

Cut the squash into quarters and remove the seeds. Peel the squash and coarsely chop into smaller, even sized pieces. Set aside.

Pour 1 cup of water into the pan with the vegetables, increase the heat to high and, using a wooden spoon, deglaze the pan, scraping up the browned bits on the bottom. Add the remaining 7 cups water, the squash pieces, 1 tablespoon of salt, and some pepper. Bring the mixture to a boil, lower the heat, and simmer, covered, until the squash is very soft, 30 to 45 minutes. Remove the sage and let the soup cool slightly.

Puree the soup, in batches, in a blender and pour into a clean saucepan. Taste and adjust the seasoning, and reheat the soup to serve.

Serves 2

1/8 of puff pastry recipe (see below)

2 medium red onions

3 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup Zinfandel

1/4 cup sherry vinegar

1 to 2 tablespoons casis

Pinch of sugar

Salt and pepper to taste

Divide in half the 1/8 piece of puff pastry recipe. (Reserve the rest of the puff pastry for another use.) Roll the pieces into 2 rough oval shapes large enough to fit into 4 inch long oval shaped forms. Press the puff pastry gently into the forms and trim it, leaving 1/8 inch above the rims. Prick the dough well, and bake on a baking sheet in a preheated 400 degree oven for 10 minutes. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees and prick the dough again if necessary. Bake for another 5 to 10 minutes, until the shells are completely done. Leave the shells in the forms on a cake rack until they are completely cool. Remove the shells from the forms and set aside.

To make the red onion mixture, thin-slice 2 medium red onions. Sweat them in 3 tablespoons unsalted butter over medium heat for 10 minutes. Add 1/2 cup Zinfandel and 1/4 cup sherry vinegar, cover, and cook for about 30 minutes over low heat. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons casis for color, a pinch of sugar, and salt and pepper to taste, and cook uncovered, for 5 minutes over medium heat. The onion should have just a tablespoon or so of liquid. Divide the onion mixture between the tart shells and serve.

Puff Pastry

1 pound of all purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons ice water

1 1/4 pounds unsalted butter

Mix 1 pound flour with 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and make a mound of it on a work surface. Make a well in the mound and add 1 cup plus 3 tablespoons ice water to the well. Incorporate the flour into the water from the center of the well. When the dough forms a soft mass, add 1/4 pound soft butter and knead once to form a soft dough. Cover, refrigerate, and let rest for 1 hour.

On a floured table, spread the dough into a symmetrical cross shape, keeping the center part thicker than the four flaps. Put 1 pound cool but soft unsalted butter in the center and fold the flaps over the butter, like a package, to completely encase it. Flour lightly and roll the dough into a rectangle approximately 18 by 9 inches. Brush the flour off the dough. Fold it in three equal parts, one over the other like a letter. Turn the dough 90 degrees, roll out again to a rectangle and fold in three. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour. Repeat the process of rolling and folding twice more. Cover, refrigerate, and let rest another hour. Give the dough a final two turns, making a total of six turns. Let it rest for another hour in the refrigerator, before you start the final assembly.

Southern Bread Pudding with Bourbon Sauce

Bread Pudding

8 ounces sourdough bread, crusts removed, cut into 3/4 inch cubes

1 cup heavy cream

1/2 cup raisins

6 tablespoons bourbon

2 large eggs

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

Bourbon Sauce

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter

6 tablespoons bourbon

1 cup granulated sugar

1 large egg

Confectioner's sugar for dusting

For the bread puddings: Preheat the oven to 350. Spray four 1-cup ramekins with nonstick cooking spray. Set them on a baking sheet.

In a large shallow bowl, combine the bread cubes and cream. Mash them together gently and let them soak for 30 minutes. In a small bowl combine the raisins and bourbon; let soak for 20 minutes then drain.

In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and sugar together until pale and thick. Add the vanilla and soaked raisins, then gently stir into the bread mixture. Spoon equally into the ramekins and use a toothpick to poke any visible raisins back into the center of the puddings.

Bake until golden brown, 30-40 minutes. Let cool slightly, then unmold onto 4 dessert plates.

For the bourbon sauce: In a small saucepan, melt the butter over low heat with the bourbon and the sugar. Cook, stirring constantly, for 10 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk the egg to combine. Gradually whisk in the warm butter mixture and return to the pan. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, 3 to 5 minutes. Pour through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl.

To serve, dust the warm bread puddings with confectioners' sugar and drizzle with the warm bourbon sauce. Pass additional sauce at the table. Makes 4 servings.

Whiskey Bread Pudding with Caramel Sauce

Bread Pudding

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

8 ounces French bread, cut into 1 inch cubes (about 8 cups)

3 large eggs

4 large egg yolks

3/4 cup sugar

1 1/4 cups heavy cream

1 1/4 cups whole milk

Pinch of salt

1/4 cup whisky

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

3/4 cup dried currants

Caramel Sauce

1 cup sugar

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

Pinch of salt

2 tablespoons water

1 cup heavy cream

For the bread puddings: Preheat the the oven to 375. Butter a shallow 8 cup baking dish and sprinkle with sugar. In a large bowl, sprinkle the cinnamon over the bread cubes and toss to combine.

In a medium heatproof bowl, whisk the eggs, egg yolks, and sugar together until pale and thick. Whisk in the cream, milk, salt, whiskey and vanilla. Place the bowl over a saucepan of barely simmering water (but not touching the water) and stir until very warm, 6 to 8 minutes. Pour over the bread cubes, stir in the currants, and let stand for 20 minutes.

Pour into the prepared baking dish and set it in a roasting pan. Pour hot water into the roasting pan to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Cover with aluminum foil and bake until set and lightly browned, about 20 minutes longer. Let cool.

For the caramel sauce, in a saucepan, combine the sugar, corn syrup, salt, and water. Stir over medium heat until the sugar is dissolved. Increase the heat to high and boil without stirring, swirling the pan occasionally, until the syrup is a deep golden amber color, about 4 to 6 minutes. Reduce the heat to low and very carefully stir in the cream in a slow, steady stream (the sauce will bubble and foam). Cook, stirring, until smooth 2 to 3 minutes.

To serve, cut the warm bread pudding into 8 equal servings and transfer to dessert plates. Drizzle with the warm caramel sauce and pass more sauce at the table. Garnish with whipped cream, if desired. Makes 8 servings.

Chef Willy Colin

Sauce Verte

2 ounces fresh spinach

2 tablespoons fresh parsley

2 teaspoons fresh tarragon

1 cup mayonaise

Poached Salmon

1 2-pound salmon, filleted (leave skin on)

1 cup Chablis wine

1 cup cold water

1 lemon sliced

1 carrot sliced

1/2 onion sliced

4 bay leaves

2 springs parsley

1 teaspoon thyme

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed

1/2 cucumber sliced (garnish)

lemon sliced (garnish)

Blanch spinach, parsley and tarragon. Chop fine and squeeze in a towel to remove as much liquid as possible. Combine all ingredients in a mixing bowl and reserve.

Place salmon, skin side up, in an oven-proof casserole dish. Add Chablis wine, water, lemon, carrot, onion, bay leaves, parsley, thyme, salt and crushed peppercorns.

Cover casserole tightly and poach in a 400-degree oven for 20 minutes. Cool poached salmon in cooking liquid and chill thoroughly. Remove skin of salmon, then slice salmon into 1 1/4 inch wide pieces. To serve, garnish salmon with Sauce Verte, and cucumber and lemon slices.